Monday, 31.03.08, 6:27 p.m., Salzburg, Austria

Rolled into Salzburg around three or four in the afternoon. I changed my Slovak Crowns into Euro and didn't receive much in return, as expected. Took bus #5 into town. In terms of an urban area, Salzburg may be the most gorgeous place that I have ever seen. The view from my hostel window is the enormous castle and the Alps! I laughed and stood for a half hour marveling at how perfect Salzburg is. I wanted to hop online to let everyone at home know that I arrived in Austria safely, but 20 minutes was a whopping 3 euro! I decided to pass and grab some dinner at the hostel, which was 6 euro---total bang for buck seeing as a coffee and street food would be the same price. I wanted vegetables too because I couldn't remember the last time that I consumed greens.

After filling up at the hostel, I walked around Salzburg to get my bearings and figure out how to hike up to the castle. I felt like K. in Kafka's Castle novel! Salzburg is much different from other places that I have visited because of its small size and its majesty. It is very medieval, perhaps on par with Prague in those terms. However, it feels like an overgrown town rather than a booming metropolis. The alps and castle surround the town. At every single angle. This place is regal without the pomp and is relatively free of annoying tourists. I just kept inching toward the castle and followed the only road that goes up. I saw a few younger people going for en evening jog after work and a middle aged couple holding hands on a stroll. I hope that I will be that happy when I am older.

I am relieved to be out of Slovakia, though I am glad that I had the chance to go. Everything seems a bit clearer now. Slovakia by most standards is a developing nation that will hopefully continue to develop at the rapid rate that it is moving at right now. EU membership is helping tremendously. It is still very much of Eastern Europe, as is Prague outside of old town and tourist areas. That is plain to see in the clothes worn to the quality and age of your Skoda car. The older ones were produced in the former Czechoslovakia and now the main plant is in Germany because it was bought by Volkswagen. Regardless, there is much old world to be had in Prague and in the rest of the Czech Republic. Salzburg is a different breed.

For one, it is so tranquil, sleepily so. Could it be the Salt Lake City of Europe? Quite possibly. Looking out over Salzburg in the half-light is stunning, but I miss Prague and even Bratislava. Bratislava has some really charming parts and the old town looks gorgeous in the light. Looking up at Salzburg Castle at dusk was surreal. It looks much like Dracula's castle, creepy in the best of ways. Werner Herzog should have shot scenes for his Nosferatu remake here! I guess it was too close to home for him (he is a Munich native). I am getting used to the loneliness now. It is just me and this majestic place, a city fit for a king.